At Table
A Proper Po-Boy
By M.B.T. Gastronome
“Do ya want dat dressed, dahlin?”
As soon as I heard those words, I knew I was in for a treat. I was placing a “to go” phone order for a roast beef po-boy. I drove on down to the little restaurant to pick it up, take it back to Dad’s house, and wash it down with a long-neck Barq’s. It was wonderful. And for dessert? A bowl of Blue Bell vanilla bean ice
cream topped with sliced
Ponchatoula strawberries.
I prefer my roast beef po-boys
“dressed” and “pressed.”
Dressed refers to lettuce, tomato
and, of course, a generous
slathering of mayonnaise on each
side of the sliced French bread.
Not chewy French bread, but that
which has a crisp crust and a soft inside. A true roast beef po-boy aficionado always prefers the “dressed” version rather than one with “nuttin’ on it.” Some folks like cheese on a roast beef po-boy. Not me. The taste of the cheese detracts from the taste of the beef.
“Pressed” refers to the final stage before the po-boy is served. Once the po-boy is made, it is laid on a po-boy press (just picture a very large waffle iron) and heated. The press always leaves tell-tale burn marks on the bread. The po-boy can also be “pressed” on a standard griddle. Using a heavy metal spatula, press the po-boy to the grill, then turn it and press the other side.
Most folks judge a roast beef po-boy by the number of napkins necessary to finish the sandwich. The gravy should soak into the bread but not through the bread. However, expect a good roast beef po-boy gravy to create somewhat of a messy eating experience. While gravy does not always contain debris, that is usually a sign of a roast that is so tender that little meat chunks invade the gravy. The little meat chunks are referred to as debris.
And where, you might ask, did I find this delicious roast beef po-boy? Alas, I can’t reveal the exact location because that would be too much of a threat to my anonymity. I can say, though, that it was at a little drive-in restaurant on the north shore.
As for the most unhealthy po-boy I have ever consumed? Has to be a French fry po-boy drenched in debris gravy. Delicious but too much of an artery clogger to consume on a regular basis.
I have been searching for a really good roast beef po-boy in Mobile. I’m sure it is there somewhere. I just haven’t found it yet. Any suggestions?
(Editor's note: Our pseudonymous gourmand visits area dining establishments and reports on the experience. Wherever food is served, our well-traveled critic is likely to arrive with an appetite and depart with an opinion. He dines at his own expense; remains anonymous to all; reports only on those restaurants he frequents in the regular course of life, primarily reasonably priced places. However, he does splurge on occasion. Bon Appetit!)
