At Table
Sonny's
By M.B.T. Gastronome
Sonny’s on Schillinger Road is one of many franchise locations of a
40-year-old barbecue chain that has its origin in Gainesville, Florida. This particular Sonny’s has a checkered past.
franchises in Florida as well as the
Baton Rouge location, and always
enjoyed Sonny’s barbecue. When
I first ventured into the Schillinger
Road Sonny’s about five years
ago, I expected a better than
average meal. My expectation was
not met. I tried this location a few
more times with the same
disappointment. I stopped going.
Apparently, so did many others.
Sometime later, this location shuttered, and then finally re-opened with new management. I decided to give it one more try and was pleasantly surprised at a dramatic turnaround. I now drop in at least once a month and have not been disappointed.
Recently I ventured to Sonny’s again. This time I chose their Sweet and Smokey Ribs. The ribs were lean, meaty, tender, and had a very delicious smoked flavor. I chose a baked sweet potato and fried okra as side dishes. The sweet potato was very good. The okra …. well, go to Mama’s for fried okra. The garlic bread is very good, but I try to stay away from too much bread. It’s a carb thing. These are certainly not the best ribs I have ever eaten, but they are much better than the dreamers on Old Shell served when I was in there a few weeks ago.
The best ribs for me are the baby backs found at TJ Ribs in Baton Rouge at I-10 and Acadian, an easy stopover if traveling west on I-10. These “fall-off-the-bone” ribs have a wonderfully distinct taste. Sonny’s also has baby backs and they are good, just not as good as the TJ variety.
Sonny’s has a varied menu selection of pork, beef and chicken products. I prefer their pork and chicken. They also offer catfish and shrimp, although I would not consider ordering a seafood entree at a barbecue restaurant.
As a rule, there is a dearth of very good barbecue establishments in Mobile. Sonny’s does not violate the rule. However, Sonny’s is well worth an occasional visit. It is clean and one doesn’t have to stand in line to place an order. That, to me, is the “pits.”
I do like good barbecue but have not been overwhelmed by anything in Mobile, so, Sonny’s is about as good as it gets around here.
(Editor's note: Our pseudonymous gourmand dines at his own expense; remains anonymous to all; reports only on those restaurants he frequents in the regular course of life, primarily reasonably priced places. However, he does splurge on occasion -- "I occasionally make it to one of the late Ruth Fertel’s franchises on Airport. I will return there, just as often as I can afford it. The barrel maker puts out the best steak in Mobile.")
