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At Table
Wintzell's - Fairhope

By M.B.T. Gastronome
Wintzell’s Oyster House is not one of my favorite restaurants. Although it is generally good, there are several other places in town that are better. Having never eaten at the Fairhope Wintzell’s, I graciously accepted an invitation to dine there with friends from the frozen nawth (Birmingham).

My lovely dining companion and I arrived at the appointed time only to be confronted with an overcrowded parking lot and no available spaces. This could be a good sign and a bad sign, I thought. Good because it might
speak of the
quality of food
offered. Bad
because it could
indicate a long
wait for service
and food. We
finally found a
suitable parking
place and went
inside.

As it turns out, a large contingent from a Grand Hotel conference was there at the same time. The place was very, very crowded. However, a table was available and we were quickly seated and quickly served. I was impressed.

Glancing around the crowded restaurant, I quickly spotted two political dignitaries. Mobile County Sheriff Sam Cochran and his lovely wife, Sabrina, were seated with a large group of diners, including Bobby Timmons, Executive Director of the Alabama Sheriffs’ Association.  At an adjacent table, my host advised, was Sheriff Mike Hale of Jefferson County along with his lovely wife, Dianna. Judging from the insignia on some shirts, other Sheriffs were in attendance also.

My lovely dining companion ordered the broiled stuffed flounder with crabmeat dressing. She said it was very good and, indeed, she consumed every bite, not offering me even a small taste.

I chose the Half and Half platter of fried shrimp and crab claws. The fried shrimp were large, well seasoned and well prepared. The crab claws were good, but not as good as the versions offered at The Mariner on Dog River or Nan Seas on Cody Road. Nonetheless, I ate every bite.

For dessert, we each chose Wintzell’s version of Key Lime Pie. She ate most of hers. I ate all of mine, all the while wishing I had another slice of Ole Bay Steamer Key Lime Pie instead. The pie was okay, but not something I will order again.

Overall, the dining experience was very pleasant. The food was very good and, in spite of the large crowd, the server and kitchen quickly provided our meal. Will I return? Certainly.

(Editor's note: Our pseudonymous gourmand visits area dining establishments and reports on the experience. Wherever food is served, our peripatetic critic is likely to arrive with an appetite and depart with an opinion. He dines at his own expense; remains anonymous to all; reports only on those restaurants he frequents in the regular course of life, primarily reasonably priced places. However, he does splurge on occasion. Bon Appetit!)
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